chapter_04

- Between Order and Chaos -

Trip from Saarbrücken to Lethem.


There's an awful lot of rain for a dry season. It's Wednesday evening now. We are in the Rupununi visiting with the Amerindians. But let's back up a little. Ernst is here and I may have to listen to him. I listened to Shirley the last 1 and 1/2. She told me most of her life. How she came from a family with no money and whatnot.

But like I said first back to leaving Georgetown. Captain, shit, I can't think with people talking to me. Vagi, I'll check the spelling if I get a chance. 8:30 at the second most expensive hotel in Georgetown. After missing the nightlife with the important people.

Are we going to get it here. I may have to sleep.

So after wait for press that never came, we drove off to the river. Just a short drive and then we were at the docks. Capitain Gerry had his show planned for us. The girls, the equipment, the boats and off over the river to a small tributary and woop, Georgetown and civilisation was gone. The filming was to continue as we zipped around on the corners, slowing for small boats. Usually someone Gerry knew. It's beautiful jungle.

Fuck, I'll never get to the present if I repeat it all. Had an hour and a half at one of the Amerindian festival places. Filmed a little more, talked to some people. Then off to Gerry's little piece of paradise. Eating.

Out back watching the birds. Started flirting with Samantha a little. Couldn't help it, she was inviting it.

A little more filming, then off to the next Amerindian settlement. It was film night with Gerry. Filmed a little more and when it was dark and the film was on, I watched the sky and talked with that young woman that seemed to want my attention.

And in the boat on the way back she was there beside me.

But let's skip along to the next day. No need to go on about eating, sitting by the bon fire, walking through the jungle, the women, Ernst & I, coming back to the fire, stars and without a flashlight in the jungle on the way back. That was nice. And the midnight swim with Joan. And it all seemed almost too good and too decadent. And I couldn't really figure out why this woman was homing in on me and then we were alone by the fire and nothing really happened but what is the definition of nothing. And how can it happen if it ain't even got a way to be. And will I ever see her again, I don't know. I mean there would be no point. Unless there is a point to lovely skin, nice curves and let's not talk about the rest.

She told me earlier in the evening, several times making it a point, that I had a nice ass for a white guy. Just for the record. But we won't go on about hers. Or her young firm breasts.

Because nothing really happened.

And the day broke. 2 hours sleep and it was time to face the next adventure, not knowing if we'd see any of the people again. And she let her hair down for me.

And from the boat, to the car, to the plane, oh fuck, what a thing. Jammed full, load as hell and to the falls. The highest in the world. Wait. I get a cookie.

I should first mention that I am sitting in my hammock, listening to the Brazilian music they are playing at the Amerindian Heritage - oh look, a big cricket. This place has frogs and geckos and a few other things as well. And the thunder.

The trick with a hammock is to get a big one. You have to be on an angle.

Anyhow, we made a few passes of the falls so Ernst could film it. Gerry had arranged it for us. And we had paid for it.

But jumping Jesus, if you go there, spend a day, your head will need it to accept the magnificence of it. It's better than Star War animation. The water comes racing down the river to this 800 foot gorge and plummets to the pool below. White noise at its best. Lots of thundering bass to fill it all out. Though it was not permitted and our excellent host, the Ranger, stationed there since four years, was there with us, I had to go out to the edge for Ernst to film it. Sharla was getting nervous on the 4th take. And for a moment, I laid down and looked straight down. And could have stayed a week and I think I will one day. Or seven. Alternating where I look. And letting the awe of it make me unaware of anything else.

Perhaps my next honeymoon.

Then Lethem. In the heart of the Rupununi. With 400 Amerindians on their way for the 5 days of events, sports, beauty contests and disco.

Next time I write, I may talk about the history of the Melvilles and what they are up to now. One of the things is giving us a place to hang our mats and make us feel welcome.

And Ian kept bringing me women to dance with. Everyone is mad here in case I forgot to mention it later. Maybe I have better luck writing tomorrow.

_bunnie stop_

Thursday now. They are still playing the same song. We had a nice interview with the Minister for Amerindian Cultural Affairs tonight. Actually a nice man. And when he played La Bamba at the show, it was hard not to admire him. He's got a bit of a shitty job. He can't really make any of his own decisions but I don't want to go into the politics.

The buzzards must have received a nice carcass today. 36 of them were having a feast. The Melvilles used to be a big ranching family before they all left the country when the troops came down to show who was running the country.

There is too much to tell. I should take notes when Ian is telling history or stories. He knows most of it. He has a book about it as well as other books.

I keep getting bit by those little bugs.

The body needs three weeks or so to get used to them apparently.

The Chiefs are all here from every community in Guyana. There are more Amerindians around here than anyone else. Most anyone else lives somewhere else.

And the dogs are barking.

Someone, a black drinking boy said something to me because I was white. I didn't quite catch it but either he wanted to fuck me or frighten me. The Amerindians here aren't at all like that, they see it differently.

The little girl that lives here is unbelievable. She is all the legends tell about. An angelic face with beautiful dark eyes that are a present when they look at you and show recognition and friendship. If she was a woman, I'd have no chance.

They have told of such things. Pete says just don't eat or drink anything a woman offers you and you'll be safe. I don't really believe him, but - well, let's not talk about it.

Luckily I haven't met a woman like her here yet. I have to get back to Germany and I will but I may end up back here.

Which may make sense really. I was always a fan of this part of the world and always wanted to be an Amerindian when I grew up.

Oh, and we were at the cashew plant opening. Funding by IIAC and Unicef, I believe but the women have it together.

The Amerindians have no interest in living like they used to. Anthropologist think it would be nice but the (Amer)Indians don't want to hide in the jungle. They want to sell their products and raise their standard of living. A not so simple task when trying to keep some culture and already having given up their minds to Christianity and now I sleep. Or try.

_bunnie stop_




taken from:
a trip from saarbrücken to lethem
by john rah

go to number five



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